12/08/16

PAPOSCIAMANESIMO



In ordine sparso, qualche nota sulla seconda edizione di Mukanda Festival, chiusasi venerdì scorso a Vico del Gargano (Foggia), e alla quale ho partecipato come invitato al talk di apertura su afrofuturismo e dintorni, e come DJ della festa a seguire alternandomi con il collega Andrea Mi (qui uno dei miei segmenti).

- Mukanda (letteralmente "guarire e rinforzarsi") è un rito di passaggio degli Ndembu, popolo dello Zambia: "(...) lo scopo principale del Mukanda è il trasformare i ragazzi in uomini. I meccanismi critici di questa trasformazione sono la rimozione dei ragazzi dalle cure delle loro madri, la loro circoncisione effettuata dai vecchi della tribù, che agiscono come esperti rituali, e un periodo di guarigione e istruzione in cui i ragazzi assumono nuovi compiti e identità sociali che rafforzano le relazioni con i loro padri, e infine una celebrazione comunitaria che riconosce il mutato status dei giovani uomini tornati nella loro società." (Tradotto da Ritual: Perspective and Dimensions di Catherine Bell).



- Il nome non è scelto a caso, visto che è la natura del festival stesso a ricordare a suo modo il rito di cui sopra. Non so se prima di andare a fare l'università al nord i vecchi di Vico li abbiano circoncisi, ma tutto nasce da un gruppo di ragazzi del paese che ogni estate mettono in pausa le loro vite da fuorisede (studenti e lavoratori) e tornano a casa. Con un'idea in più: non solo organizzare un festival musicale, ma organizzarlo nel centro storico di Vico. Fiore all'occhiello di uno dei Borghi più belli d'Italia, labirinto di viuzze e slarghi sorprendenti (vedi il fantastico largo del Conte qui sopra, una delle due location principali della manifestazione), case scavate nella pietra della cinta muraria e torri coniche, semiabbandonato da quando la gente ha cominciato a trasferirsi nella parte moderna del paese.

- Come in tantissimi altri posti del nostro sud, a Vico si sta meravigliosamente. A un quarto d'ora dal mare e a ridosso della Foresta Umbra, al fresco dei 450 metri sul livello del mare e con il costo della vita che potete immaginare (nel centro storico ci sono pure un sacco di cartelli "Vendesi", e pare che le case costino pure poco). Si sta meravigliosamente se hai un lavoro o qualche tipo di rendita, intendo. O se non cerchi stimoli da grande città. Altrimenti vai via, come i ragazzi di cui sopra e tantissimi altri, non solo a Vico.



- A Vico si sta meravigliosamente anche perché il suo prodotto più famoso è una cosa deliziosa come la paposcia. Qui spiegano bene cos'è, io mi limiterò a ripetere che è deliziosa, croccante fuori e morbida dentro, economica e mediamente enorme. Una specie di versione più leggera del panuozzo napoletano. Fra le varie farciture, spiccano a mio parere quelle più semplici e tradizionali: olio e pecorino, oppure la favolosa salicornia. Oppure olio, pecorino e salicornia (vedi foto), come da me richiesto alla signora della pizzeria/paposceria I Duje Port', che mi ha gentilmente accontentato e mi ha pure venduto un barattolo di salicornia sott'olio fatto apposta per me. Cos'è la salicornia? Prego.

- Dicevamo di Mukanda: al rito e al dialogo fra antico e moderno, radici e viaggio esperienziale, si rifà anche il cartellone del festival (tutto gratuito), firmato da un direttore artistico che con questo genere di cose va a nozze come Raffaele Costantino (che molti di voi conosceranno per l'ottimo Musicalbox, su Radio 2 Rai). Lui la chiama narrazione verticale, è un'ottima idea sulla carta e lo è pure nei fatti. Non ci sono nomi grossi messi lì per attirare la gente, ma nomi medio-piccoli di valore certificato, e la gente viene lo stesso perché tutti insieme sono qualcosa di più della somma delle parti.



- Nickodemus qui sopra, ad esempio, ha il triplo della fantasia del DJ medio, suona con tre cdj e fa il pandemonio. Anchorsong poi, pazzesco. Non solo per il movimento di gamba più FIGO mai visto su un palco, ma anche e soprattutto per quello che riesce a fare con un campionatore e basta (e una tastiera ogni tanto), suonato live con abilità e gusto pari alla tranquillità senza sforzo apparente con cui affronta il tutto. Quello che riesce a fare è musica non facile, eppure facilissima per come fa ballare qualche migliaio di persone. Musica che cambia in continuazione ma segue un filo, con svolte che riescono ad essere completamente inattese e la cosa giusta al momento giusto, insieme.
Peccato che il set audio/video dal vivo di Felix Laband sia stato interrotto troppe volte (cioè: più di zero volte) da problemi di natura tecnica, e proprio quando i crescendo del produttore sudafricano stavano per arrivare al culmine, fra l'altro. Ma il suo recente Deaf Safari resta un album di eccellente house sui generis, politica e creativa come non la si sentiva da tempo. Di Kalifa Kone ho sentito purtroppo solo la fine, ma se da un unico tamburo e due mani riesci a ottenere una ventina di suoni diversi (o a farci credere che siano una ventina, meglio ancora), c'è poco da aggiungere.



- Il giorno seguente, dopo le selezioni originali (spuntano pure cose Disco Halal) e il mix perfetto di DJ Hendrix, tocca alla techno organica ed evocativa, ma a dire il vero un poco monocorde, del superbarbuto President Bongo, ovvero Stephan Stephensen già Gus Gus. Un solo Gus ha invece nel nome d'arte Panagiotis Melidis, ovvero Larry Gus qui sopra, che organizza un live con macchine e pezzi di batteria, corre come un pazzo avanti e ineidtro, su e giù, e coinvolge la piazza piena con ritmi incalzanti, campioni strapazzati e cantato in falsetto, e dinamiche di crescendo e ripartenze euforiche che ricordano i migliori Animal Collective. Chiude tutto DJ Khalab, reduce dallo splendido album realizzato in coppia con Baba Sissoko e qui impegnato invece in un DJ set che fa ballare anche i muri spessissimi delle case del centro storico di Vico, ottima combinazione di spinta house e influenze multiculturali.



- Le parti in causa insomma vengono da una fetta di mondo bella e molto varia: Mali, Sudafrica, Giappone, Stati Uniti d'America, Islanda, Grecia, Italia. Quello del manifesto qui sopra invece non è un beduino di chissà quale tribù sahariana, ma un membro di una delle molte confraternite di Vico.



- Vico che è soprannominata addirittura "Città dell'amore", forse perché il suo santo patrono è nientemeno che San Valentino, protettore della città e soprattutto dei suoi agrumeti, da sempre fra i cardini della sua economia. Questo ed altro nella visita guidata del centro storico che i ragazzi di Mukanda - ciliegina sulla torta di un'organizzazione molto attenta, entusiasta e puntuale - offrono gratuitamente ogni pomeriggio nei giorni del festival.

- Un po' di musica per chiudere, con quello che è senza ombra di dubbio uno dei miei pezzi dell'estate, e dell'anno. Dedicata a Mukanda e a Intersos: #europasenzamuri!







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